You’ll need to studiously avoid the two heaving pastry cases on either side of you as you order your meal at the counter of this White Center bakery. Focus! Before you can get to those tres leches cakes and strawberry empanadas, get yourself a proper meal of pillowy pupusas stuffed with chicharron, salty queso, refried red beans, or nutty loroco flower buds. Breakfast plates come with fried plantains, and there’s a full list of sandwiches, grilled and stewed meats, and soups for lunch and dinner. The plato guanaco—a pupusa, a tamale, sweet plantain, fried yucca, and red beans—is a boon for the indecisive. JENN CAMPBELL