Remember Cremant, June, and/or Restaurant Bea? Ethan Stowell now runs Red Cow, his French brasserie, in the (great) Roy McMakin–designed space. The specialty of the house is steak frites, with six cuts of beef (from hanger to a big ol' bone-in ribeye for two) and four classic sauces (bearnaise, compound butter, red-wine reduction, and horseradish cream) available (how to choose?!). The chef is Thom Koschwanez, a Chicago native who was previously a sous chef at the James Beard–awarded Central Michel Richard in DC. (Coming soon to share the space: a separate Stowell spot called Noyer, a small-size redux of his original, haute, marvelous Union.)