For years, I've turned to the Central District's Cafe Selam for my ful needs. Here the ful is satiny smooth and spicy—the fava beans are lightly pureed with olive oil and red chili. It's served in a broad white bowl topped with freshly chopped scallions, tomatoes, and serrano chilies, as well as slices of hard-boiled egg and soft crumbles of feta cheese. A red plastic basket filled with two crusty French loaves accompanies each bowl. Immediately after it lands on the table, I'm tearing into the bread and dragging it through the stew. Hours later, my lips are still buzzing from its spice and heat.
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